ngā purongo

I roto i te pūnaha matatini o ngā hua matū tiaki makawe, he mahi motuhake tā ia wāhanga, ā, ka mahi tahi hei whakatutuki i te hua tino pai o te hanga kāhua me te tae.Glyceryl monothioglycolate(CAS 30618-84-9), hei matū whakaiti waikawa nui, ahakoa ehara i te wāhanga matua o te tae me te whakakoi makawe tika, he mahi āwhina nui tana i roto i te tukanga tae makawe. Ko ōna āhuatanga matū ahurei e tautoko ana i te whakarei ake i te pānga tae makawe me te whakaiti i te kino o te makawe.

I. Ngā Āhuatanga o te Wāhanga: He matū whakaiti ngawari i roto i ngā taiao waikawa

Hei mārama ki te mahi a te glyceryl monothioglycolate i roto i te tae makawe, me whakamārama tuatahi i ōna āhuatanga matū matua. Nō te whānau matū thiol tēnei wāhanga. He kaha te mahi whakaiti o te rōpū thiol (-SH) kei roto i tōna hanganga ngota, ko te rōpū glyceride ia e whakarato ana i te wairewa pai ki te wai me te hototahi ki te kiri. Ki te whakatauritea ki ngā matū whakaiti kawakore tuku iho, ko te painga nui o te glyceryl monothioglycolate kei roto i tōna awhe pH waikawa ngoikore (te tikanga 3.0-4.0). Mā tēnei āhuatanga ka taea e ia te whakaputa i ngā pānga whakaiti me te karo i te kino nui ki ngā kiri makawe i puta mai i ngā wāhanga kawakore tino nui. Whakatakotoria te turanga o te "maimoatanga ngawari" mō te tukanga tae makawe e whai ake nei.

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Mō te pumau,te kareira monotiokarotikaKāore e ngāwari te pirau i roto i ngā pūnaha waikawa, ā, ka taea te pupuri i tōna kaha whakaiti mō te wā roa. Nā tēnei āhuatanga e pai ai mō te mahi tahi me ngā ngota tae, ngā ārai me ētahi atu wāhanga i roto i ngā tae makawe hei hanga i ngā tauira hua tiaki makawe pumau. I taua wā, ka taea hoki e tōna hanganga glyceride te hanga i tētahi kiriata tiaki i runga i te mata o te makawe, ka whakaiti i te kino ki te hanganga keratin o roto o te makawe i puta mai i ngā maimoatanga matū i muri mai, ka whakarato i tētahi otinga maimoatanga hoa mō te tae i te makawe kua pakaru, i te makawe angiangi me te ngawari rānei.

II. Te tūranga matua o te tae makawe: Whakatuwheratia ngā "awa" me te whakarei ake i te pakari o ngā tae

Ko te kaupapa matua o te tukanga tae makawe ko te urunga me te piri o ngā ngota tae ki roto i te makawe. Heoi, ko ngā ārai taiao o te makawe – ko ngā kiriuhi me ngā hanganga keratin – ka ārai tika i te urunga o ngā ngota tae. Ko te mahi matua o te glyceryl monomercaptoacetate ko te wawahi i tēnei ārai mā roto i ngā tauhohenga matū me te "whakatuwhera i ngā awa" mō ngā ngota tae.

1. Wāwāhia ngā here disulfide me te whakangawari i te hanganga o te makawe

Ko te kaha me te ngāwari o te makawe e whakawhirinaki ana ki ngā here disulfide (-SS-) i waenga i ngā ngota keratin. Ka taea e te rōpū thiol (-SH) i roto i te Glyceryl monothioglycolate te tauhohe ki ngā here disulfide, ka whakaiti i a rātou ki ngā rōpū thiol e rua (-SH + -SS- → -SS- + -SH), ā, ka motuhia te hononga i waenga i te keratin. Mā tēnei tukanga ka ngawari, ka puāwai hoki te hanganga o te makawe, ka puare haere ngā kiriuhi, ā, ka tukuna te wāhi o roto o te makawe e piri ana i te tīmatanga, ka hangaia he āhuatanga mō te urunga o ngā ngota tae ki roto i te tae makawe.

Ki te whakatauritea ki te waikawa mercaptoacetic e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā kaihoko whakakoi makawe kawakore, ka taea e te taiao waikawa ngoikore o te glyceryl monothioglycolate te whakahaere tika i te nui o te pakaru o te here disulfide, me te karo i te kino nui e arahi ana ki te makawe pakarukaru me te ngawari ki te pakaru. E whakaatu ana ngā raraunga whakamātautau i raro i te wā tukatuka kotahi, i te whakamahinga o te kaihoko maimoatanga kei roto i tēnei wāhanga, ka taea te whakahaere i te tere pakaru o ngā here disulfide i roto i te makawe i te 30%-40%, e kore e taea anake te whakatutuki i ngā whakaritenga urunga tae engari ka pupuri hoki i te neke atu i te 70% o te kaha miihini o te makawe.

2. Whakapai ake i te piri o te tae hei whakaroa i te wā whai mana o te tae makawe

Ina tuwhera ngā kiriuhi makawe, ā, ka ngawari te hanganga o te makawe, ka taea e ngā ngota tae i roto i te tae makawe (pērā i ngā takawaenga o ngā tae kua waikurahia me ngā ngota ngota iti o ngā tae tika) te tomo mārire ki te paparanga o te kiri makawe. Ka taea hoki e te taiao waikawa ngoikore o te glyceryl monothioglycolate te whakahaere i te āhua o te utu ā-roto o te makawe – ka mau te makawe i te utu pai i raro i ngā āhuatanga waikawa, ka hanga i te kukume hiko me ngā ngota tae utu kino, ka āwhina i ngā ngota tae kia piri kaha ki te keratin me te whakaiti i te ngaronga o te tae i te wā horoi.

I roto i ngā mahi whaihua, ka taea te whakanui ake i te roa o ngā pānga tae makawe mā te 20% ki te 30% i muri i te maimoatanga ki tētahi kaihoko maimoatanga o mua kei rotote kareira monotiokarotikaHei tauira, ko te wā memeha tae o ngā tae makawe noa i runga i te makawe angiangi me te ngohengohe he tata ki te 4 ki te 6 wiki. Heoi, i muri i te rongoā ki tēnei matū, ka taea te whakaroa i te wā memeha tae ki te 6 ki te 8 wiki, ā, ka ōrite te mākū o te tae, ka karohia ngā raruraru pēnei i te memeha i ngā pito o te makawe me ngā rerekētanga nui o te tae hou i ngā pakiaka o te makawe.

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III. Ngā Horopaki Whakamahinga Whaihua: Ko te nuinga o te wā e aro nui ana ki te tukanga "whakarino me te tae kua whakaritea".

Ahakoa ka taea e te glyceryl monothioglycolate te āwhina i te tae makawe, kāore e tāpirihia tika ki ngā tae makawe engari he maha ake te kitea i roto i ngā kaihoko whakakoi makawe (ina koa ko ngā hua whakakoi makawe waikawa) me ngā kaihoko i mua i te maimoatanga makawe, ka hanga he huinga "tahi" me te tukanga tae makawe. Ko ngā whakamahinga noa ko ngā wāhanga e rua e whai ake nei:

1. He mahere tiaki "perm tuatahi, kātahi ka tae" mō te makawe pakaru

Mō ngā makawe kua pakaru i puta mai i te whakakoi me te tae pinepine, ko te tukanga tuku iho o te "whakakoi tuatahi, kātahi ka tae" ka ngaro te ngāwari o te makawe nā te kino matū rua. I tēnei wā, ka noho hei mea nui te kaihoko whakakoi makawe waikawa kei roto ko te glyceryl monothioglycolate: ka taea e tōna taiao waikawa ngoikore te whakaiti i te kino o ngā kiriuhi i te wā o te tukanga whakakoi, me te wawahi mārire i ngā here disulfide, ka taea ai e te makawe te hanga i tētahi momo miro me te pupuri tonu i tētahi taumata pakari. I te wā e tae ana te makawe i muri mai, ka taea e ngā kiriuhi kua tuwhera te uru tere, ka whakakore i te hiahia mō ētahi atu tae makawe kawakore teitei, ā, ka whakaiti i te tūponotanga o te kino rua.

2. Te maimoatanga "Whakarei Tae" mō te makawe angiangi me te ngawari

He iti te matotoru o te keratin o te makawe angiangi me te makawe ngohengohe, ā, he angiangi te hanganga o ngā kiriuhi. Ina tae tika, ka piri ngā ngota tae ki te mata, ā, he uaua ki te uru ki te paparanga cortex, ka puta he tae mārama, ka ngawari hoki te memeha o te tae. I tēnei wā, ka taea e koe te pania he kaihoko maimoatanga kei roto ko te glyceryl monothioglycolate ki ō makawe: ka taea e tōna pānga whakaiti te pakaru i ngā here disulfide i roto i te makawe angiangi me te makawe ngohengohe, ka "ngāwari" ake te hanganga o te makawe, ā, i te wa ano, ka taea e te kiriata tiaki i hangaia e ngā rōpū glyceryl ester i runga i te mata o te makawe te aukati i te ngaronga nui o ngā ngota tae. I muri i te maimoatanga i mua i te tae makawe, ka taea te tohatoha ōrite ake i ngā ngota tae ki te paparanga cortex, ka hua ake he pānga whakaatu tae kapi ake, ā, ka taea hoki te whakaiti i te riri o te haukini, te hauwai peroxide me ētahi atu wāhanga o te tae makawe ki te makawe angiangi me te makawe ngohengohe.

IV. Ngā Whakatūpato mō te Whakamahinga: He mea nui te pāwera me te mahi tahi o te tātai

Ahakoa he nui ngā painga o te glyceryl monothioglycolate mō te āwhina i te tae makawe, nā ōna āhuatanga matū, me tino aroturukitia te haumaru me te whai whakaaro ki te hanganga i te wā e whakamahia ana hei karo i ngā tūponotanga kino.

1. Te pāwera pea: Me whakahaere ngā whakamātautau kiri

Kei roto te Glyceryl monothioglycolate i te momo thiol o ngā matū, ā, ko tētahi o ngā mate pāwera noa i roto i ngā hua tiaki makawe. Ahakoa he pānga roa mai i ngā tohunga tiaki makawe (pēnei i te pa atu o te kiri ringa ki te hua) i ngā kaihoko rānei e whakamahi ana i ngā hua whakakoi/tae kei roto tēnei matū, ka pā mai pea te mate kiri pā – ka puta ngā tohu he whero, he mākūkū, me te werawera i te tumuaki. I ngā wā kino, ka puta pea he pupuhi, he kiri tihore, ā, ka horapa atu ki ngā wāhi e pā ana pērā i te mata me te kaki.

Glyceryl monothioglycolateHe mea nui ake kia mōhiotia ko tēnei wāhanga ka noho tonu ki roto i te makawe i muri i te whakakoi, te tae rānei mō te toru marama. Ahakoa kāore he mamae i te whakamahinga tuatahi, ka pā tonu pea ngā toenga kai ki te tumuaki i te wā e horoi ana i te makawe me te heru ana, ka whakaroa i ngā mate pāwera. Nō reira, me whakamātautau kiri mō ngā hua tiaki makawe katoa kei roto tēnei wāhanga i muri i te taringa, i te taha o roto rānei o te ringa i mua i te whakamahinga. I muri i te whakaūnga kāore he mate pērā i te whero, te pupuhi, te mākūkū rānei, ka taea te whakamahi ki te tumuaki.

2. Te whakawhirinaki ki te tātai: Kāore e taea te whakamahi ko ia anake

Ko te pānga o te Glyceryl monothioglycolate e tino whakawhirinaki ana ki te mahi tahi o te tātai, ā, kāore e taea te whakamahi ko ia anake mō te tiaki makawe. I tētahi taha, me whakakotahi ki ngā mea ārai (pērā i te waikawa citric me te sodium dihydrogen phosphate) kia mau tonu ai te taiao pumau, ngoikore te waikawa. Mena kāore he mea ārai i te tātai, ka piki ake pea tōna uara pH i te wā e rongoatia ana, ā, ka ngaro tōna ngawari engari ka heke pea te mahi whakaiti. I tētahi atu taha, me whakakotahi ki ngā kaihoko chelating (pērā i te disodium EDTA) kia kore ai e tauhohe ngā katote konupūmā me te konupora i roto i te wai ki ngā wāhanga, ā, ka pā ki te pumau.

Hei tāpiritanga, he ārai kore hototahi tēnei kai ki ngā hua tino kawakore, pērā i ngā tae makawe he nui ake te haukini i te 3%. Mēnā ka konatunatua tika ki ngā tae makawe tino kawakore, ka whakararuraruhia te taiao waikawa ngoikore. Ehara i te mea ka kore e āwhina i te whanaketanga tae, engari ka puta pea he hau whakapataritari, ka whakanui ake i te kino o te makawe me te riri o te kiriuhi. Nō reira, me whakamahi ngā kaihoko whakakoi makawe, ngā kaihoko rānei i mua i te maimoatanga kei roto tēnei wāhanga me ngā tae makawe (e taunakihia ana kia tae te makawe i roto i te 24 ki te 48 hāora i muri i te whakakoi), ā, me karo i te pa tika.

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3. Te maimoatanga toenga: Me horoi pai i muri i te rino me te tae

I te mea ka roa pea te noho o te glyceryl monothioglycolate i roto i te makawe, i muri i te otinga o te tukanga whakakōkī me te tae, me horoi pai te makawe ki te hopi horoi koretake hei tango i ngā toenga. I te wā e horoi ana, me whakamahi te wai mahana (tata ki te 37℃) kia kore ai e whakapataritari i te tumuaki ki te wai wera rawa. I taua wā anō, ka taea e koe te whakamahi i te whakangawari kei roto ko te panthenol me te ceramide hei whakatika i ngā kiriuhi kua pakaru, me te whakaiti i te pānga tonu o ngā toenga ki te makawe.

V. Whakamutunga: Te "Kāore e taea te Whakakapi" o ngā Tūranga Tautoko

Ahakoakarikareira monotiokarikolata CAS 30618-84-9Ehara i te mea ko te wāhanga matua mō te tae me te whakakoi makawe, engari kua noho hei "āwhina ngawari" matua i roto i te tukanga tae makawe nā tōna āhuatanga whakaiti waikawa ngoikore. Ka whakaratohia e te Glyceryl monothioglycolate he otinga haumaru ake, whai hua ake hoki mō te whakakoi me te whakakoi i ngā makawe pakaru me ngā makawe angiangi me ngā makawe ngohengohe mā te whakatuwhera i ngā kiriuhi me te arotau i te whakapiringa o te tae. I taua wā anō, ka whakatakotohia hoki te turanga mō te whakapai ake i te roa me te whakaatu tae o te tae makawe.

Heoi, ko tōna kaha ki te pāwera me te whakawhirinaki ki te tātai he whakamahara mai hoki ki a tātou me whai whakaaro te whakamahinga o ngā hua tiaki makawe ki te whai huatanga me te haumaru. Ahakoa he kaihoko, he kaiwhakapai makawe rānei, me mārama katoa rātou ki ngā āhuatanga o ngā kai, me te whai i ngā tikanga whakamahinga pēnei i te whakamātautau kiri, te whakataurite i te tātai, me te horoi pai, kia taea ai e tēnei "kai āwhina" te mahi i tana mahi me te whakaiti i ngā mōrearea hauora ki te whānuitanga nui. I te heke mai, me te whanaketanga o te hangarau matū whakapaipai makawe, ka taea te whakapai ake i te tātai o te glyceryl monothioglycolate. Hei tauira, mā te whakaranu ki ngā tango tipu (pēnei i te tango tī matomato me te tango chamomile), ka taea te pupuri i ōna pānga āwhina me te whakaiti i te kaha ki te pāwera, ka whakarato i tētahi otinga haumaru me te ngawari ake mō te mara tae makawe.