I te mea kua piki ake ngā tono a ngā kaihoko mō te haumaru o te tiaki kiri, kua noho ko te "horoi mārie + whakatika ārai" te paearu aromatawai matua mō ngā horoi kanohi.Konutai kokoirā te kurutāmate(CAS 68187-32-6), he matū horoi waikawa amino tūturu i ahu mai i te hinu kokonati me te waikawa glutamic, e whakarapopototia ana ko SCG. Nā te iti o te riri me te hototahitanga teitei, kei te noho hei wāhanga matua o te tātai mō ngā waitohu ataahua nui, e akiaki ana i te mākete tiaki kiri waikawa amino ki tētahi wāhanga whanaketanga kua whakatikatikaina.
I. Ko te painga matua e tūwhera ana: he putanga rua o te ngawari me te whai huatanga
Te pikinga ake ote kaiwhakarewa konutai kokoirāmuI ahu mai i tana mahi auaha o ngā kai horoi tuku iho. Hei kaiwhakaora waikawa amino anionic, ka tutuki i te scg sodium cocoyl glutamate te taurite i waenga i te kaha horoi me te ngawari mā roto i tōna hanganga ngota ahurei - ka taea e te sodium cocoyl glutamate te whakarewa tere i te hinu me te paru i runga i te mata o te kiri, ka hanga he pahuka matotoru me te ngawari ki te horoi, engari ka whakaitihia hoki te kino ki ngā lipids i roto i te stratum corneum. Ko tōna tere kino o te stratum corneum he 68% te iti iho i te tere o te kino o ngā kaiwhakaora e hangai ana ki te sulfate tuku iho.
He pumau te uara pH o tēnei kai i waenga i te 5.0 ki te 6.0, he tino hototahi ki te uara pH o te kiriata sebum o te kiri hauora. Ka taea e ia te ārai i te kino o te ārai kiri i te wā e horoia ana. Kua whakamanahia e ngā whakamātautau tangata, i muri i te whakamahinga o ngā hua kei roto i tēnei kai, ko te ngaronga wai transepidermal (TEWL) o te kiri he 42% te iti iho i tērā o ngā horoi kanohi tuku iho. I taua wā, ko tōna tere tino iti o te aro (ko te tere tauhohenga o te whakamātautau HRIPT he 0.3% anake) me te tere mimiti kiri iti iho i te 0.01% e haumaru ai mō ngā rōpū motuhake pēnei i te kiri tairongo, ngā wāhine hapu me ngā pēpi ki te whakamahi.
II. He whānuitia ngā whakamahinga mākete o te konutai kokoirāmu: e kapi ana i ngā āhuatanga katoa mai i te papatipu ki te utu nui
I tēnei wā, kua noho te disodium sodium cocoyl glutamate hei wāhanga matua o ngā hua tiaki kiri horoi pērā i ngā horoi kanohi, ngā horoi tinana me ngā shampoo, mai i ngā hua o te motu utu iti ki ngā waitohu o te ao. E whakamahia ana e rātou katoa hei matū horoi matua, me ngā kai whakatikatika pērā i te ceramide me te panthenol, e whakatutuki tika ana i ngā hiahia horoi o te kiri maroke me te kiri tairongo me te kiri kua pakaru.
I roto i te mara o ngā horoi kanohi whai hua, kua tutuki i te whakamahinga matū o tēnei kai ngā whakapainga maha-ahu. Ko ētahi hua, mā te whakakotahitanga o ētahi atu matū horoi waikawa amino pēnei i te potassium cocoyl glycinate, me te niacinamide, te tangohanga tī me ētahi atu kai, ka hangaia he tauira maha-mahi o te "horoi + whakahaere hinu + ārai-pakeketanga". E whakaatu ana ngā raraunga whakamahinga 28-rā ka taea e ēnei hua te whakaiti i te hinu o te kiri hinuhinu mā te 42% me te whakaiti i te whero o te kiri tairongo mā te 90%. E whakaatu ana ngā raraunga whakamātautau tuatoru ka taea e ngā horoi kanohi kounga teitei kei roto i tēnei kai te tango i te neke atu i te 97% o te tiaki rā SPF50 + me te hanga-ake māmā o ia rā, e tutuki ai ngā hiahia watea o ngā kaihaerere mō te "horoi me te tango i te kotahi".
III. He haumaru te konutai kokoirāmuta?
He iti te riri
Whakamātautau whakapataritari kanohi (paerewa OECD 405): Kāore he tauhohenga whakapataritari a te konutai cocoyl glutamate (kaute < 1), he pai ake tēnei i ngā wāhanga sulfate tuku iho (pērā i te SLS/SLES);
Whakamātautau whakaōrite kiri (HRIPT): Ko te tere whakaōrite he 0.3% noa iho. He iti iho te tere whakaōrite o te disodium sodium cocoyl glutamate i te tere whakaōrite toharite o ngā rauemi mata whakapaipai (2.1%), ā, ka taea te whakamahi haumaru e te kiri tairongo me ngā wāhine hapu.
He ngawari, he pai hoki mō te ārai kiri
Ka whakapūmauhia te uara pH ki te 5.0-6.0, he mea tino hototahi ki te uara pH o te kiriata hinu o te kiri hauora (4.5-6.5), ka ārai i te maroke me te piri o te kiri i muri i te horoinga.
Kāore te konutai kokoirāmu e kino ki te hanganga ngako o te papa kiri. I muri i te whakamahinga, ka heke te ngaronga wai transepidermal (TEWL) o te kiri mā te 15% ki te 20%, ā, ka āwhina tēnei ki te pupuri i te pumau o te ārai kiri.
Te haumaru taiao me te haumaru pākia o te tinana
Neke atu i te 90% te tere pirau koiora (paerewa OECD 301B), kāore he mōrearea o te parahanga wai, e tutuki ana i ngā whakaritenga tiaki taiao.
He tere te pākia o te tinana tangata, ka tukuna te nuinga mā te mimi, ā, kāore he mōrearea o te kohikohinga ki roto i te tinana.
IV. Te ia o te ahumahi oHokona te konutai kokoirāmu SCGhe pai: Ko te ngawari o te taiao ka noho hei matua ki te whakatau a te kaihoko
I te whānui haere o te rōpū "rōpū kai", kei te piki haere tonu ngā tono a ngā kaihoko mō te haumaru me te āhua tūturu o ngā kai o ngā hua tiaki kiri. Ko ngā rauemi mata o te konutai cocoyl glutamate i ahu mai i ngā rauemi mata tūturu, ā, neke atu i te 90% te tere pirau i roto i ngā rā 28, e hangai ana ki te ia o te kai e pai ana ki te taiao. Ko te nui o te rapunga o ōna hua e pā ana i runga i ngā papaaho hokohoko ipurangi he tere tipu ā-tau neke atu i te 60%. I roto i ētahi rārangi hoko wera o ngā horoi kanohi waikawa amino, neke atu i te 70% ngā hua kei roto i tēnei kai.
E ai ki ngā tākuta kiri, ko te horoi mārie te tūāpapa mō te pupuri i te hauora o te kiri. Ko te konutai cocoyl glutamate surfactant, me ōna painga he mārie, he kore e whakapataritari, ā, he pai mō ngā momo kiri katoa, kei te whakakapi haere i ngā surfactant whakapataritari tuku iho, ā, kua noho hei whiringa matua mō ngā hua tiaki kiri horoi. I te heke mai, me te whakapai ake i te hangarau tauira, ka haere tonu te whānui o tana whakamahinga i roto i ngā āhuatanga motuhake pēnei i te whakatika toi muri-hauora me te tiaki pēpi, ka whakatairanga i te whanaketanga o te mara tiaki kiri me te horoi ki tētahi huarahi haumaru ake, tika ake hoki.
He ngaio mātoungā kaiwhakarato konutai kokoirāmue tuku ana i ngā rauemi mata konutai kokowaira kounga teitei i te utu whakataetae konutai kokowaira—nau mai whakapiri mai ki a mātou ki te hoko konutai kokowaira mō tō tiaki kiri, tiaki whaiaro, mahi ahumahi rānei!
Wā tuku: Hakihea-04-2025